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Richard Mille 和 Renaud et Papi 的故事 (之二)
Richard Mille 向來承認自己並非製錶師,也從不諱言與 Renaud et Papi 的合作關係,這當然是 Richard Mille 深知自己的專長與貢獻,其實在雙方的合作中扮演極重要角色,才能獲致這樣的自信。Richard Mille 目前面世的全系列錶款,基本上便是以 Richard Mille 本人的創意、理想與堅持為出發點,結合 Renaud et Papi 製錶廠的技術與品質所創造出來的完美結晶。以性能和外觀都相當神似的 Richard Mille RM 002 Tourbillon 和A.P. Royal Oak Concept Watch 皇家橡樹概念錶兩者所共有的設計特色為例,其中Torque Indicator 扭力顯示器 (愛錶稱呼為 Dynamograph 動力描計器,用以檢視發條的扭力狀態,因為發條的扭力狀態會影響腕錶的運轉是否處於最精準的狀態)和性能選擇器Function Selector (先選擇上鍊或調整時間的選項之後,才能以錶冠調設,以免錯誤超做導致機件損壞)等,這些創意的重要來源幾乎都是來自 Richard Mille 的經驗和發想。




點擊可觀看放大原圖

RM001 Tourbillon


由於 Richard Mille 除了手錶外,也醉心於跑車的研究和蒐集,尤其是 F1 高科技的造車技術,因此 Richard Mille 一向主張腕錶應當堅固實用有如 GT 賽車,而製錶的技術和材質更應該向汽車製造一樣,與時代科技的進步同步並進。所以,Richard Mille 的 Tourbillon Watch (和 Royal Oak Concept Watch) 的外表都具有一如 F1 賽車一樣既流線、又充滿肌肉動感的曲線。而它透過藍寶石水晶玻璃表面和背底面所呈現的高度複雜精密的機芯,除了配置經過特別的安排,呈現出如菊花花瓣一般的美感外,其實是蘊含了如賽車堅固骨架的精細安排,不但具有吸收震動的性能考量,而且每一個零件、每一個鎖鈕的配置都事先考慮,得以讓日後的維修更方便、更容易。


點擊可觀看放大原圖

RM 002 Tourbillon


點擊可觀看放大原圖

Tourbillon RM002


而為了達成製造一只堅固腕錶的要求,Richard Mille RM001 Tourbillon 歷經 20,000 個動作所完成的機芯以及總共需要 1200,000 個動作才能完成的整只手錶,無論錶身、螺絲、旋鈕等等大小零件都只採用鈦金屬、太空陶瓷以及所謂的 ARCAP 特殊合金製作。另外而 Richard Mille Tourbillon 所配備的 Tourque Indicator 扭力顯示器和Function Selector 性能選擇器,更都是將應用於F1 賽車多年的技術概念衍伸到製錶界的結果,Richard Mille 十分自然地將 F1 賽車界的優點納入自己的製錶計畫中,並與 Renaud et Papi 分享靈感、反覆討論所得的優異結晶。


點擊可觀看放大原圖

Richard Mille 精密複雜機心的另一側同樣具備性能美感


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖



目前Richard Mille 有 RM001、RM002 和 RM003 三種陀飛輪手錶,以及 RM004 計時碼錶四種錶款,都裝置在酒桶形的錶身之中。RM001 具有陀飛輪、扭力顯示器和動力儲存顯示性能,而 RM002 則添加了性能調節顯示器 Function Selector,至於 RM003 則再加上 GMT 的性能。Richard Mille 手錶的售價當然並不便宜,像 RM001 Tourbillon 的建議售價就高達 120,000 元美金。然而,對講究獨特品味的金字塔頂消費者來說,困擾的反而是 Richard Mille 的產能遠不足以滿足風擁而來的大量需求,要擁有一只 Richard Mille 除了要有錢,還得有等待的耐心才行。




Tourbillon Double Fuseau RM003


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