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Italian Style:義大利的無名魅力 Anonimo
提起義大利的托斯卡尼 Tuscany,你想到的是不是在綿延起伏的丘陵裡,鮮綠的葡萄藤和橄攬樹在艷陽下散發著鄉村的靜謐景色,和屬於義大利人葡萄酒般濃烈的浪漫熱情。然而,當鏡頭轉到托斯卡尼的心臟地區佛羅倫斯 Florence (或譯 Forenz 斐冷翠),卻又展現出義大利獨步全球的藝術涵養和工藝技術,畢竟這個文藝復興的重鎮曾經涵養了達文西 Leonardo da Vinci 和米開朗基羅 Michelangelo 等藝術大師,深刻影響了整個世界的美術和科學。

很多人知道除了瑞士外,英國、法國和德國也都曾有過蓬勃的製錶工業,在計時工藝的進步上有深遠而重大的貢獻,但是提到義大利就鮮為人知了。Florence 的製錶工藝可以推早到 15 世紀初期的 Filippo Brunelleschi,據信他首先改進採用了發條來做為時計的動力。17 世紀的 Galileo 則首先以發展出以鐘襬來做為計時動力和標準的理論基礎,其後佛羅倫斯的著名鐘錶大師 Eustachio Porcellotti 在 1877 年製作出第一個鐘襬時鐘。More....


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

遠眺美麗的佛羅倫斯可看到遠處的聖母百花大教堂


就像你可能不知道今日錶界中錶迷熟知的 Girard-Perregaux (Gino Macaluso)、Hublot (Carlo Crocco) 和 Paul Picot (Mario Boiocchi) 等品牌的老闆其實都是義大利裔一樣的道理,近代的義大利在製錶界的聲名,相較於瑞士和德國,當然顯得落寞很多。一直到十多年前的 Officine Panerai 的突然崛起,所謂的義大利風格才又重新擄獲全球錶迷注目的眼光。當 1860年Giovanni Panerai 在意大利佛羅倫斯(Florence) 創立 Officine Panerai 沛那海,並在兒子 Guisseppe 的建議下,也在佛羅倫斯開設了一家小小的錶店 l'Ologeria Svizzera 時、在 1867 年賣出第一只手錶給意大利皇家海軍的時候,甚至是 1938 年賣出最早一批 Luminor Panerai 手錶的時候,他們並不曾料想到 Officine Panerai 不但對義大利海軍的作戰方式產生了影響,還在六、七十年在世界錶壇投注下了巨大無比的震撼風潮。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖



其實義大利,尤其是佛羅倫斯地區向來以金屬冶鍊和鍛製聞名 (想一想義大利的機車和汽車工藝吧),在製錶方面則以錶殼的製造和最高級的皮製錶帶獨步全球。然而,Richemont/Vendome 集團收購了 Officine Panerai 並在1997 年將其公司遷移到瑞士後,Florence 的製錶工業也陷入無以為繼的危機。這對向來以精湛的工匠技藝和藝術品味自豪、講究歷史傳承的佛羅倫斯人來說,簡直是無法忍受的大事。在一次佛羅倫斯商業界人士的聚會後,曾任職義大利名牌 Salvatore Ferragamo 的 Federico Massacesi 決定接受徵召,成立一家公司來繼續維繫住佛羅倫斯當地、乃至於整個義大利的製錶命脈。於是就像是人世間的沉浮一般,佛羅倫斯失去了 Officine Panerai 這個乍現的新星,卻也因而促成了全新品牌 Anonimo 的誕生。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

防水達一千米的 Millimetri 是 Anonimo 的創意代表作


1998 年起,Federico Massacesi 召集結合了 Tuscan 地區各個領域的的製錶工匠,創造出Anonimo 的第一只創業作 Mellimetri,並迅速暢銷市場。這樣的成績並非偶然,畢竟這一群工匠們就是曾經賦予 Panerai 迷人魅力的幕後英雄,也就是他們在從父執輩習得了極致的手藝後,延續著佛羅倫斯地區百年以上的傳統製錶技藝。以負責錶殼製造的 Valerio 為例,這個對所有機械都異常癡迷的大師自 15 歲起就已經入行,當他在 1972 年自己開設公司前已經有了 17 年的專業經驗。即便是他的兒子 Gianluca 也已經跟隨著他工作了近 20 年了。Anonimo 製造錶殼的方式不採用高壓壓製 (Stamping),而以整潰金屬經過義大利人溫柔耐心的鑽挖方式,以達成鞏固金屬硬度的目的。至於 Anonimo 的機芯則是來自瑞士的精選機芯 (主要是 Unitas和 ETA),在位於托斯坎尼 San MauroA Signa 小鎮、由製錶大師 Fabianco Alessi 領導的工作室負責最後的修改、組裝和測試。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Militare Chrono


Anonimo 的另一個堅持是佛羅倫斯地區為義大利海軍製作的軍錶本色,表現在Anonimo 強悍堅固的外型和質感上。另外一方面,Anonimo 也重視手錶的防水性能。除了所有手錶都須通過工作室裡模擬的標準防水測試外,Anonimo 更和知名的深海潛水研究機構 Cooperative Nazionale Subacquei (C.N.S) 合作進行實地測試,達成密不透水的保證。Anonimo 的錶帶採用的則是由世界知名的義大利 Ciampi 家族研發而成的 Kodiak 防水錶帶。Ciampi 家族的 Brelli Ciampi 最早研發出以鯨油和 Seal Oil 鞣製皮革增加防水性的方法,這個秘方經過不斷的改良日益成熟,1990 年代時的 Panerai 的前董事長 Dino Zei 開始採用 Ciampi 的皮帶。如前段所言,義大利人對皮革的喜好和經驗向來聞名,而 Anonimo 的創辦人 Federico Massacesi 在 Salvatore Ferragamo 的經歷促使了 Anonimo 堅持採用 Ciampi 的錶帶製品,既成了 Anonimo 的簽名式特色之一,也延續了屬於義大利的光榮魅力。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Anonimo 的錶殼製造技術極受尊崇


Anonimo 在義大利文裡是 Anonymous 「無名」的意思,很多人好奇這個品牌名字的來由。Federico Massacesi 解釋說:「佛羅倫斯人向來的美學觀念就是去蕪存菁,只留下必要精緻的部分,即使是瞬息變化的時尚也只會因最純粹的美感而沸騰」。Anonimo 希望製造的是一只屬於配戴者的手錶,當被問起帶的是甚麼手錶時,我們希望的答案是「我的手錶」,這就是我們將品牌名字取名為 Anonimo (Anonymous),而且不在面盤上標註品牌名字、只標有錶款名稱的原因。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Chrono 5000 and Centometri


Anonimo 在其初試啼聲的第一年 1998 共生產了 99 只手錶,預估五年後的今天可以增加到年產 3000 只手錶。Anonimo 的產品線也由一開始的 Millimetri,逐漸增加了 Militare、Militare Chrono、Professionale、Wayfarer GMT 及其他豐富的產品系列。即便不是 House-Hold 錶廠,Anonimo 仍以其熱情和專業所建構的精緻鐘錶工藝和無以取代的義大利特色,在世界錶壇漸露頭角。如果你曾因為 Officine Panerai 的魅力懾服,不妨也來體驗一下更純正的意式風格 Anonimo。 


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Militare


Acknowledgment:

Photos Courtesy of Ernie Romers, peg, and rick. Special thanks to the Anonimo Forum.
發表於 Thursday, May 06 @ 07:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

 
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