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Simple is Beautiful 簡單是美: Philippe Dufour (二)
單純的美感:Simplicity

Simplicity 是 Philippe Dufour 大師最近的作品,也可以說是大師展現製錶精粹的傑作。雖然只有簡單的時分和小秒針顯示,但和 Grande Sonnerie 以及 Duality 一樣,所有機件都由製錶師 Philippe Dufour 一人親自設計,以傳統製錶機械手工打磨和製作,由齒輪、游絲、擒縱到橋板的裝置和整合,都充滿 Philippe Dufour 近似簽名式的精采風格。無論是 34 mm 或是 37 mm size 的貴金屬錶殼搭配簡潔精緻的面盤,都呈現出雅致無瑕的魅力。藍寶石水晶玻璃可透視錶背內,蘊藏著精細雕琢,卻又堅韌強固的美麗機芯,裝飾有日內瓦波紋的基板上則嵌鑲著刻烙有品牌名稱和編號的金屬銘版,象徵著製錶師希望自己的作品可以讓擁有人代代相傳的宣誓和意念。More....


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Simplicity, photo courtesy of SteveG


Simplicity 一發表後就受到收藏家和鐘錶玩家的熱烈迴響,長串的訂購名單讓等候時間長達到兩年左右。固然,高昂的定價和有限的產量讓 Simplicity 幾乎成為金字塔頂端 (狂熱或是富裕) 錶友的標的。這樣的成績其實並不意外,因為目前全世界除了 Philippe Dufour 之外,沒有任何品牌或製錶師還完全遵守古代手工製造的程序,耗費一年以上時間去完成一只最簡單的三針錶款,Philippe Dufour 以完美獨一的工藝被奉為製錶界的聖杯,其來有自。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Simplicity, photo courtesy of SteveG


Philippe Dufour 現象的省思

以目前情況來評斷 Philippe Dufour 的成就,我們可以說他既樹立了堅持以製錶師本人親身獨自以傳統手工製作鐘錶的核心價值,也在大廠的優勢生產和行銷能力氛圍中,發展出了自己的利基市場。這樣的現象其實也揭露出現代高級製錶領域的ㄧ大矛盾,就是手工製造、現代科技與市場利益三者之間如何既競爭、又共同進步的問題。以 Philippe Dufour 唯一稱讚過的 A. Lange & Sohne 為例,A. Lange & Sohne 機芯的所有設計的確都一絲不差地重現二個世紀前高級德製懷錶的味道,但若沒有現代化生產技術例如CAD、CNC、線切割機等,絕不可能達到量產規模。當代高級腕錶的設計無論是出自性能或外觀的考量,傳統與現代,手工與機械的確會可能出現彼此矛盾的現象,畢竟性能的優越性和手工的精緻度有時並不能共存。

點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Simplicity 的機芯打磨達到完美近乎苛求的境地
Photo courtesy of SteveG



當然「傳統工藝」究竟是一種實際程序還是行銷策略,也總是不斷在收藏圈中引起爭辯。其實,德國的 A. Lange & Sohne 和瑞士高級品牌包括百達翡麗、寶璣等也都存有同樣的內在矛盾,隨著鐘錶資訊流通,錶廠愈來愈難迴避這些問題,而他們將來所做的抉擇對於高級腕錶業界的未來也必定會有決定性的影響。






Philippe Dufour 的手錶,特別是 Simplicity 的熱潮和高昂的定價也在錶迷之間引發一些熱烈的討論,花 Patek Philippe Calatrava 五倍或 D.Dornblüth & Sohn Caliber 99.0 十幾倍的價錢排隊買一只基本三針款式手錶畢竟超乎一般消費者的經濟能力和理解範圍。姑不論以下的類比是否合適,像 Simplicity 這樣手工製作、數量稀少的腕錶,它的價值在某方面來說就像攝影家的相片、畫家的油畫或是雕塑家的陶瓶一樣,只有願意付出代價的伯樂知音能真正界定一件作品的價值。而當我們沒有能力親身擁有一件作品時,我們依舊可以敞開心胸欣賞它散發的美感,即便是無法抑制嘴裡響起著的對價格標籤的詫異聲音。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Simplicity 簡單但完美: Photo courtesy of SteveG


無論如何,可見的未來,對時計充滿熱情的 Philippe Dufour 依舊會繼續埋首在他 Le Sentier 小屋的窗前桌臺邊和跟隨他的奧地利年輕製錶師Bernhard Zwinz 以及女兒Magali Dufour,一方面繼續為殷切的錶迷製作他們等待多時的手錶,一方面繼續創造發明他心目中的夢幻時計。世人對他手錶的狂熱或對他的手錶價值的爭論,恐怕不是這位製錶大師最關心的事情。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Simplicity by Philippe Dufour
Photo courtesy of ei8htohms and Curtis Thomson


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