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We love Moonphase! 月相錶面盤生動,精準調校有撇步
kevin 寫著 "月相錶在近幾年的機械錶市場相當流行,月亮畫面隨著陰曆每日變化由朔至望,生動的畫面是消費者喜歡的重要原因之一,但是如何調校月相錶,卻常令消費者頭痛,正逢今年中秋節月圓時刻,慎昌鐘錶總經理應工力彥建議,月相錶的調校只需掌握「十五」月圓的時刻,就可讓手中的月相錶展現品味與陰曆報時的雙重效果。More....







點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

月相錶向來是最充滿溫柔優雅之美的手錶
圖為 Vacheron Constantin Malte Moonphase for Lady


月相週期 29.5 天•錶款製作技術純熟

應總經理表示,月相性能對於錶廠來說可算是簡單的入門的製錶工藝,月相的週期為 29.53 天,鐘錶製作技術將月相週期化約為 29.5 天,換算成兩個週期的月相,製錶業就製作成有 59 齒的星輪,兩個半圓各有一個月亮圖形輪流出現在月相性能錶的視窗,因此每 29.5 天正好走完半圓,這樣的設計,使得月相圖形要歷經約 33 個月才會產生一天的誤差,因此製作技術上不致太困難,又比日曆性能每每碰觸大小月就需調整的問題要來得「精準」,然而「細微處見真章」,百達翡麗一款月相錶就可以精準達 122 年才會出現一天的誤差,最近進入台灣市場的 A. Lange甚至製作過一款 1000 年才需調整的限量版月相錶 1815 Moonphase。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Lange 1815 Moonphase 精準度達 1000 年才誤差一天


調校月相•滿月置中間再推算應調校幅度

但是應工力彥也提醒,月相錶的調整比較複雜,不像是日曆性能,可以參考當天的日期數字做修正,最好的方式就是對照說明書的操作說明做調整,但如果手邊沒有說明書,調整時就以農曆十五月圓為基準,將月相錶的月亮圖形對準正中間,再按照當時的陰曆推算做調整,舉例來說,如果要調整至農曆初二,上月陰曆月底是 29 日,則調整二十九減十五,再加上二就可以了,但若是陰曆大月則有 30 日,則再多加 1 日即可,這通常是靠位於月相錶殼邊的快調按鈕操作,或是透過旋轉瓏頭的方式進行調校。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

調校月相錶前宜詳讀說明書
避開不適合快調裝置的時間
圖為 Blancpain Villeret Moonphase 20th Anniversary


中秋滿月賞錶好時機•調校應避開不適合快調裝置的時間

今年的中秋節滿月的時間,據民間推算是晚間九點零九分,這時候正是月最圓滿的時候,拿出月相錶來做番調校,也是除了應景的月餅、柚子之外的另種風情。但是應總經理也特別提醒,若在賞月時調校,千萬記得要先看清楚說明書,如果手邊沒有說明書,比較保險的方式,是將時針避開順時針算起 8 點到 4 點的區間,因為機械錶從每日晚間 8 點至凌晨 4 點,快撥鈕的齒輪正處於緊密嵌合的狀態,使用快撥鈕容易使機件失靈,此外,還有些特殊的錶款,例如 Blancpain 的月相錶,卻是中午 12 點不可以使用月相快撥鈕,所以變通的方式,就是將時針回撥到 8 點以前,或是撥快至 4 點以後,再使用快調按鈕調整日期或月相,之後,再調整時間即可。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

立體球形月相是今年瑞士錶展的大熱門
Paul Gerber Moonphase Caliber 33
Photo Courtesy of Magnus Bosse


"
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20160414caihuali (分數: 1)
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