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杜彼蕭登 Dubey & Schaldenbrand : 懷舊歷史情懷設計和精緻製錶工藝的完美結合
杜彼蕭登錶 Dubey & Schaldenbrand 創立於1946年,是由 La Chaux de Fonds 一所鐘錶技術學校的教授喬治•杜彼 George Dubey 與瑞恩•蕭登貝倫 Rene Schaldenbrand 所合作開創的。如同其他在二次世界大戰後興起的品牌一般,杜彼蕭登錶 Dubey & Schaldenbrand 誕生的源頭是起源於一股對於製錶技藝創新求進的堅持。這個念頭在喬治•杜彼而言,就是創造一種便宜又可靠的雙秒追針碼錶 (Rattrapante or split-second chronograph) 技術。

在當時,雙秒追針碼錶在運動計時和軍事用途上嶄露頭角,很受歡迎,但其技術僅限於少數頂尖大廠,而且價格昂貴。喬治•杜彼 (George Dubey) 發明了一種簡單但卻相當巧妙的技術,把 recoil spring 製放在面盤和表面水晶之間,解決了這個問題。這項後來被稱為 IndexMobile 的技術,不但讓喬治•杜彼贏得世界性的名聲,也奠基了杜彼蕭登的技藝唯上的傳統。More....


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

配備 IndexMobile 的杜彼蕭登古董計時碼錶 (Courtesy of SteveG)


無論是在初創立的 La Chaux de Fond 或是搬遷後的 Ponts`de Martel,杜彼蕭登 Dubey & Schaldenbrand 一向堅持選用可靠精緻的零件,並以手工打造裝配,完全襯映藝術氣息及人文薈萃的 Ponts`de Martel 鎮上的象徵性的傳統,其機芯上鑄記有「鐵鎚印記」,用來保證所有零組件皆為Valle des Ponts-de-Martel 的雕刻師以手工打造。

杜彼蕭登錶曾經以多款膾炙人口的創作屢獲世界性大獎及專利。這家年生產量僅 2500 只的錶廠,除了堅持百分之百瑞士製造,並堅持每個零組件均不假外力,在自己廠內生產製造之外,最難能可貴的一個堅持,便是該錶廠自創廠以來,一直以 20 年代新潮藝術為設計理念,這樣的美學風格一直被延續到今日,從不因為潮流的轉變而更改。後來的電子錶和石英錶風潮,雖然讓杜彼蕭登面臨困境,但因著對傳統的堅持,愛用者的支持以及維修如 tourbillon 和minute repeater 等 high-end 手錶的能力,終究讓杜彼蕭登依舊屹立錶壇。




Cinette Robert


而 1995 年,傳奇製錶大師 Meylan LeCoultre 的曾曾孫女辛蒂•羅柏 (Ms. Cinette Robert) 收購杜彼蕭登後,推出了一系列該表廠依據不同年代的舊機芯樣式重新改造的錶款,吸引無數收藏家的目光,更為杜彼蕭登注入強勁的復甦動力和旺盛的生命力。

這些舊機芯是該錶廠總裁─辛蒂•羅柏個人多年珍藏的舊式機芯,如醫生錶所採用的 1916 年手動上鍊計時機芯、Aerodyn Venus 酒桶型老式手上鍊機芯,以及 Jubile 的 50 年代手上鍊計時機芯等。由於這些不同年份的舊款機芯都是限量製作,因此這些錶款一上市即被收藏家搶購一空,促使羅柏夫人必須開發值得收藏的新款式,以不負鐘錶收藏家們的寄望。但這些新款式並不意味著杜彼蕭登原本的堅持稍有退讓;相反的,從錶面、指針到機芯雕刻,製錶師無不投入了高度鑑賞力和熱情,並傳承了瑞士傳統的製錶工藝。

點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

Aerodyn Date 充滿古典懷舊氣息



杜彼蕭登全系列錶款的最大特色,簡單的說是一種 1920 年到 1950 年結合裝飾藝術精髓與歷史情懷的懷舊設計,以 Carre' Cambre' 系列的 Calendar 和 Diplomatic 錶款為例,設計概念源自 1920 年代的新潮藝術,杜彼蕭登仿效當年風格,讓流行於現代的方形腕錶線條趨於柔美,既不是有稜有角的正方形,也不是中規中矩的圓形,這樣的款式在 20 世紀初的錶壇十分具代表性,稱為椅墊形 Cushion 。據總代理表示,目前杜彼蕭登錶廠推出新款式的時候,一定會先回頭去參考過去的作品,不是刻古就是復古,但杜彼蕭登的仿古並非漫無主題,而是堅持 20 到 50 年代的新潮藝術風格,像椅墊形錶款在其他品牌多半是博物館的收藏品,但杜彼蕭登卻是日復一日、年復一年地供應著這些特殊的款式,終於在 20 世紀末追求個性化主張的潮流中,強烈的喚起了人們對過去一世紀的懷念而大受歡迎。

點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

GMT Alarm



此外,Aerodyn 系列則強調 1930 年代著重創意的精髓,值得一提的是,Aerodyn Chronometer腕錶均通過 C.O.S.C 瑞士官方天文台為期三週的嚴密測試,包含了方位及溫差測試,以確保杜彼蕭登優良品質的信譽。而 Classic Collection 系列則以典雅的圓形系列與 1950 年代進入飛航的燦爛時代相結合,這些風格訴求持續至今,並在創意中不斷顯現杜彼蕭登獨特的堅持與品味,猶如爵士樂曲歷經百年的洗禮,源自於心底聲音的感性,成為品味與個性的象徵。

點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

隸屬 Carrée Cambrée 系列的 Caprice 3


正因為這個年產量僅 2500 只的品牌風格獨具、產量稀少,所以深受獨特品味人士的喜愛,像金馬獎影帝吳鎮宇,金鐘影帝戴立忍都深愛杜彼蕭登的手錶。吳鎮宇當年得獎後的第一件事,更是馬上去購買一只杜彼蕭登錶犒賞自己,可見其喜愛之切。杜彼蕭登 Dubey & Schaldenbrand 目前擁有 Aerodyn、Astro、Carre Cambre、Gran' Chrono、Lady 和 Celebrity等錶款, 以及 Rarities和 Limited 等限量款式。2003年推出了配備杜彼蕭登立廠 IndexMobile 技術的雙秒追針碼錶 (Rattrapante, Split-second chronograph) Spiral One 之後,今年更一口氣推出了 Spira; Cap、Spiral Venus 和 Spiral VIP 三款 IndexMobile 碼錶,我們將再下一其文章中另行介紹。


點擊此縮圖可觀看放大原圖

新推出的 Spiral Rattrapante 雙秒追針計時碼錶配備 IndexMobile


進一步資訊請洽詢:

有利股份有限公司 電話: (02) 8752-7761
發表於 Thursday, September 23 @ 07:00:00 CST 由 watchbus

 
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Re: 杜彼蕭登 Dubey & Schaldenbrand : 懷舊歷史情懷設計和精緻製錶工藝的完美結合 (分數: 1)
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