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Paul Gerber Retrograde Seconds


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Chronoswiss Delphis


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Photo Courtesy of Curtis D Thomson


¦Ü©ó³o½g¤å³¹ªº¥D¨¤ Paul Gerber «h¬O¥@¬É¤W²Ä¤@­Ó±À¥X­¸ªð°f¸õ¬í°w¤â¿öªº³Ç¥X¿W¥ß»s¿ö¤j®v (1996¦~)¡C°f¸õ¦¡«ü°w¤â¿öªº³Ì¤j¾y¤O¦b©ó¯àªY½à­p®É«ü°wÀþ¶¡­¸ªðªº´r®®·P¨ü¡A¦]¦¹¨ä²z¬Æ©úªº¡A°f¸õ¦¡¬í°w¨C¤@¤ÀÄÁ¶i¦æ¤@¦¸°f¸õªº¤ß°Ê®É¨è¦b©Ò¦³°f¸õÅã¥ÜµÃ¿ö¤¤¡A¬O³Ì´I§l¤Þ¤O©M§Þ³N§xÃø«×ªº¡C¦b¤¶²Ð Paul Gerber ¤§«e¡A§Ú­Ì¤£§«¥ýÂ÷ÃD¨Ó½Í¤@½Í¡u¥@¬É¤W³Ì½ÆÂøªºµÃ¿ö¡v¡A¦]¬°³o¥u¤â¿ö©M§Ú­Ìªº¥D¨¤¦³±K¤ÁÃö«Y¡A±q¨ä»s§@¹Lµ{¤¤¤]Åý§Ú­Ì¤£Ãø¹ï Paul Gerber ¦³§ó²`¤Áªº»{ÃÑ¡C

19 ¥@¬ö¥½¡ALouis Elysee Piguet of Le Brassus »s§@¤F¤T¥u 14 ªk¤À (32 mm) ¤j¤p¡B«o¨ã¦³ Minute Repeater ©M Grande et Petite Sonnerie ©Ê¯àªº¶W½ÆÂøªºÃh¿ö¾÷ªä¡C·Q¹³¤@¤U¦b¨S¦³ CAD ©M CNC ªº¤@¦Ê¦h¦~«e¡A±N 491 ­Ó¤â¤u¥´³yªº¹s¥ó§¹¬ü¸Ë¸m¨ì 6.4 ¥ß¤è¤½¤À¤j¤pªºªÅ¶¡ùØ¡A»Ý­n¦óµ¥«D¤Zªº¤uÃÀ¡C¥O¤H¿ò¾Ñªº¬O¨ä¤¤ªº¨â¥u¾÷ªä§H¥¢¦b¾ú¥vªº°ÊÀúùØ¡A°ß¤@­Æ¦s¤U¨Óªº¤@¥u¦b 1989 ¦~¬°·í¥N³ÌµÛ¦W»s¿ö®v Franck Muller ·jù¨ì¤â¡C


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Louis Elysee Piguet of Le Brassus 1892
Photo Courtesy of Magnus Bosse and John Davis


·í®Éªº Franck Muller ©|¥¼¦³¤µ¤éÁ|¨¬»´­«ªº¦a¦ì¡A¥u¦b°é¤º¤p¦³Án¦W¡A¥L¨ì³B´M§ä°]·½ªº¤ä«ù¡A³Ì«á²×©ó¦pÄ@±N³o¥uLouis Elysee Piguet of Le Brassus 1892Ãh¿ö¾÷ªä§ï¸Ë¬°¨ã¦³Minute Repeater¡BGrande et Petite Sonnerie¡B®É¤À¬íÅã¥Ü¡B¨ã¦³¤é´Á¡B¬P´Á¡B¶|¦~¡B¤G¤Q¥|¤p®É¡B¤ë¬ÛÅã¥Ü©M°f¸õ¤ë¥÷Åã¥Üªº¸U¦~¾ä (Perpetual Calendar¡Bretrograde month, weekday, date, 24-hours indication, 4-years cycle indication, moon phases)¡A¦¹¥~Á٨㦳Åã¥ÜµÃ¿ö¤º³¡·Å«×µ¥¿W¯S©Ê¯àªº¤@¥u¶W½ÆÂøµÃ¿ö¡CFranck Muller Á`¦@¤S²K¥[¤F160 ¹s¥ó¡A¾÷ªä¤j¤p¨Ã¥¼§ïÅÜ¡A¸Ë¶i¥Ñ Grandjean ©Ò¶q¨­­q°µªº¬üÄR¥Õª÷¿ö´ß¤§¤º¡C·í³o¥u¤â¿ö¦b 1992 ¦~ªº Basel ¿ö®iµoªí«á¡AFranck Muller¤@Á|¦¨¬°Á|¥@ª¾¦Wªº»s¿ö¤j®v¡A¦Û¦¹½ñ¤W¥LÅD¤W¿ö¾ÂªKÀYªº±d²ø¤j¹D¡C


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The Gerber-Muller-Pigut Ultracomplicated Watch
Photo Courtesy of Magnus Bosse and John Davis


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The Gerber-Muller-Pigut Ultracomplicated Watch
Photo Courtesy of Magnus Bosse and John Davis


¸g¹LµL¼Æ¤p®Éªº¸£¤O·Î¼õ©M¨¯¶Ô¤u§@¡APaul Gerber ²×©ó¦b 1995 ¦~§¹¦¨³o¶µ¹º®É¥Nªº¥ô°È¡A¦b­ì¥»½ÆÂøºò½oªº Piguet-Muller ¶W½ÆÂø¤â¿ö¤º¥[¶i¤F¥Ñ 121­Ó¹s¥óºc¦¨¡B¦P®É¤]¬O¥þ¥@¬É³Ì¤pªº Flying Tourbilon¡A³o¥u Gerber-Muller-Piguet ¤â¿ö²{¦b¾Ö¦³ 772 ­Ó¹s¥ó¡I§ó¥O¤HÃø¥H¸m«Hªº¬O¡GPaul Gerber¤£¥H¦¹º¡¨¬¨Ã«ùÄò²K¼W·sªº½ÆÂø©Ê¯à¡A2003 ¦~¥L¤S¥[¶i¸õ®É­p®É¤ÀÄÁ©Ê¯àªº°l°w­p®É©Ê¯à (Split-Seconds Chronograph with a jumping minute counter)¡A¨Ã¬°­p®É¾÷ªä©M°Ý¿ö¸Ë¸m²K¥[¤F°Ê¤OÀx¯àÅã¥Ü¡C³Ì«áªº¦¨«~¬O¤@¥u¥]§t¿ö´ßªº 79 ­Ó¹s¥ó¦b¤º¡BÁ`¦@ 1116 ­Ó¹s¥óªº¶W¶W½ÆÂøµÃ¿ö¡A¦ý¤j¤p¥u¦³ 14 ªk¤À¡B32 mm¡A¤W­±¼Ð¥ÜµÛ¤T¦ì»s¿ö¤j®vªº©m¦WLouis-Elysse Piguet, Le Brassus¡B Franck Muller, Geneve ©M Paul Gerber, Zurich¡C


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Paul Gerber Retrograde Seconds ¤Î¨ä Caliber 15 ¾÷ªä

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1997 ¦~¡APaul Gerber ¬°­ì¥»ºò½oªº Valjoux 7750 ¾÷ªä¥[¤W¾x¹a¾÷¨î¡A³o´N¬O Fortis µÛ¦Wªº Chronograph Alarm¡C¹ï¥L¨Ó»¡³o©ÎªÌ¥u¬O¤û¤M¤p¸Õ¡A¦ý¤w¨¬¥H¥s¥@¤HÅåÆv¡C¤£¹L¡A²Ä¤@¥u¯u¥¿±¾¤WPaul Gerber °Ó¼Ð»s§@ªº¤â¿ö¨ä¹ê¨Ã¤£¬O¤@¥u·¥¨ä½ÆÂøªº¤â¿ö¡A«o¬O¤@¥u¨ã³Æ¿W¯S¥X¦â©Ê¯à¡B³y«¬Â²³æªº¤â¿ö¡A¨º´N¬O Paul Gerber ¦b 1996 ¦~©Òµoªíªº¥@¬É²Ä¤@¥u¬í°w°f¸õ¤â¿ö Retrograde Seconds¡CPaul Gerber ªº³o¥u¤â¿öÁôÂõۺë±K¥©§®¡B¥ÑPeseux 7001 (ETA) §ï¸Ë¦Ó¦¨ªº Paul Gerber Caliber 15 ­¸ªð¦¡°f¸õ¬í°wÅã¥Ü¾÷ªä¡A¦ý¥~ªí«o·¥¨ä¨å¶®¤ºÀÄ¡C·eºÏ­±½L·f°tª÷Äݪü©Ô§B¼Æ¦r®É¨è¨è«×¡C12 ÂIªº«ü¥Ü¼Æ¦r³Ì¤j¡A¨Ã¨Ì¦¸¦V 6 ÂIÄÁ¤è¦VÁY¤p¡C5-6-7 ¤T­Ó®É¥i¨è«×³Q¬Ù²¤¥H®e¯Ç 120 «×ªº®°§Î 60 ¬í­¸ªð°f¸õ¬í°wÅã¥Ü­±½L¡C¥E¬Ý¤§¤U¦ü¥G¥­¤Z¯À¶®ªº³o¥u¤â¿ö¡A·í¬í°w¹B¦æ¨ì 60 ¤§«á¡A¦æ¶³¬y¤ô¤@¯ëÀþ¶¡°f¸õÂk¹s¡AÅý¤H¤£¸TÆg¼Û»s¿ö®vªºµLºÉ¥©«ä©M¨ô¶V¤~µØ¡C


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RetroTwin


2001 ¦~¡APaul Gerber µoªí¤F²Ä¤@¥u¨ã¦³¨â­Ó·L«¬¹`ª÷¦Û°Ê¤WÁåªûªº­¸ªð¦¡°f¸õ¬í°w¤â¿ö RetroTwin¡A¥H Platinum »s¦¨ªºÂù¤WÁåªû (Unidirectional Dual Platinum Rotor) ´£¨Ñ¬í°w°f¸õ©Ò»Ýªº¯E¤j°Ê¤O¡A¨ÃÀò¦³±M§Q¡C·íµM¾ã­Ó¤WÁå¨t²Î¡B°Ê¤O¶Ç°Ê©M¾÷ªäªº¾¦¨®³£¸g¹L»s¿ö¤j®v¤j´Tªº§ï­×¡AÀ³¥Î¤F¤j¶qªº¦Û»s¹s¥ó¡CRetroTwin ªº­±½L°t¸m©M Retrograde Seconds Ãþ¦ü¡A¦ý±Ä¥Î Rhodium-plated ª÷ÄÝ­±½L¡A¨Ã¹¢¦³ºë½oªº guilloche ¯Ã¯Á¯¾¹¢¡C¦Ó¿ö­Iªº¥i³zµøÂÅÄ_¥Û¤ô´¹¬Á¼þ«á¡A°{«G¿W¯Sªº·L«¬¹`ª÷¦Û°Ê¤WÁåªû®Ì°ÊµÛ¡A©M­±½L¤Wªº°f¸õ¬í°w§Î¦¨«e«á©IÀ³ªºµL²{½à¿ö¼Ö½ì¡C


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Paul Gerber Moonphase Caliber 33
Photo Courtesy of Magnus Bosse


Acknowledgementa and References:

1. ÁÂÁ´¿¤h©ý¥ý¥Í¨ó§U¤Î¤ý¥Ã©÷¥j¸³ÄÁ¿ö´£¨Ñ¥þ·s Paul Gerber Retrograde Seconds ¤Î RetroTwin ¥H¨Ñ©ç·Ó

2. RetroTwin ªº¸Ô²Ó Review¡A¥i°Ñ¬ÝthePurists.com ¤Wªº Paul Gerber's Retro twin ¡GBehind the Curtain by Curtis D Thomson ¤@¤å

2. Gerber-Muller-Piguet Ultracomplicated Watch ªº¸Ô²Ó Review¡A¥i°Ñ¬Ý thePurists.com ¤Wªº The World's Most Complicated Wristwatch by Magnus Bosse and John Davis ¤@¤å
µoªí©ó Friday, June 11 @ 07:00:00 CST ¥Ñ watchbus