年後注意:免花大錢的手錶定期保養守則

代表品味或是「傳家」價值的機械錶,可能因為年節長假沒有佩帶而處於靜止狀態,或是長假出遊後必須進行保養,慎昌鐘錶總經理應工力彥建議,久未佩帶的錶款若要重新調整時間,必須特別注意操作方式,以免造成齒輪卡榫故障,內部零件無法正常運轉,若能正常保養,錶款需要花大筆金錢維修的狀況就可以降低至最少費用。

機械錶調整時間的原則

長時間的靜置,機械錶的發條自然放鬆至錶款靜止不動,此時,若要重新佩帶,就必須先重新上緊發條,之後再校準時間,應總經理表示,一般機械錶在發條最鬆的時候,會出現時針、分針變慢或變快的現象,所以,應該先上緊發條,以免校準時間後,沒有標準動力驅動指針,即使是自動上鍊錶款,也應先用手動上鍊至八分滿,再進行時間校準。More....


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Audemars Piguet Offshore Chrono Rubberclad


機械錶自行清洗、保養的原則: (1) 軟布沾肥皂水擦拭 (2) 軟布沾清水擦拭 (3) 乾軟布擦拭 (4) 陰乾(5) 忌諱不隨便送超音波清洗

年節期間渡假後的保養方面,應總經理建議,凡是從事過水上活動的錶款,都需要做「保養」,尤其經過海水鹽分的浸泡,游泳池內過濾水質的化學物品,都容易造成錶款防水墊圈的侵蝕、硬化;有些保養是可以自己在家做的,簡單的以軟布用少量肥皂水清洗金屬及防水橡膠錶帶,最後並以濕布清除肥皂水擦拭過的痕跡後陰乾,就可以達成初步保養的性能,同時,千萬不要將錶直接送到有超音波設備的地方做清洗,因為超音波的清洗有分強、弱不同頻率,一但使用不對的超音波頻率,就容易造成內部零件鬆脫。


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Equation of Time RG


錶款收納原則:(1) 檢查保養期限 (2) 檢查石英錶是否需取出電池

年節過後,長時間的使用或長時間的收納錶款,必須特別留意錶款的保養期限,一般機械錶款的保養期限約3~4年,一旦超過這個期限,錶殼內部潤滑油容易乾漬,外部的防水墊圈則容易硬化,勉強使用容易發生機械零件故障與進水以及潤滑油乾漬導致零件磨損的問題,初期還不致影響運轉,只會看到時間的精準度越來越低,久而久之,當停止運轉時,內部零件的損耗已經非常嚴重,到了這樣的地步,「微少」的保養費用就變成「大筆」的零件維修費用支出。


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AP 的新女錶 Dream


除了機械錶保養以避免維修的問題外,石英錶除了內部零件驅動的潤滑與防水問題外,在長時期不佩帶的狀況下,若是電池已經使用很長的一段時間,最好不要再放在錶殼內做長期收納,以免電池失效,不只有無法供電問題,甚至可能會有電池液外漏必須更換內部零件的問題。

複雜機械錶使用快撥鈕應注意事項: (1) 查詢使用說明 (2) 將時間調整至五至七時位置才使用快撥鈕




Breguet Classique Le Reveil Ref 5707BA


當時間不夠精準時,複雜性能的機械錶調整時,有一些必須遵循的方式,應總經理強調,每一款複雜性能的機械錶在售出時都會附有操作說明,即使是共用機芯錶款,也會因為錶廠進行改裝時,出現零件配置方式不同、操作時必須特別留意的次序,因此,覽讀操作說明是第一要務。如果真的怕麻煩,則需特別留意正確的使用快撥按鈕,當啟動快撥性能時,必須將時針調整到正確位置,才不會造成性能零件已經卡進正確的位置,卻被強制跳動的快撥鈕轉動導致零件失靈的問題發生。


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Type XX Transatlantique


應先生建議,快撥鈕在操作時除了看操作說明外,絕大多數的錶款應該要盡量避開夜間八點到凌晨四點的時間,但也最困擾消費者的是,因為有空調整的時間幾乎都是晚上;此時,可以採取應變的方式,就是將時針調回五點到七點的位置,讓錶款已經準備卡住下一個齒輪的動作鬆開,此時再進行快撥調整就不會發生問題,但有些品牌的錶款齒輪設定在中午執行轉換動作,若以為當時是中午就沒問題而直接調整快撥鈕也會導致零件失常,所以,將時針放在五點到七點間的位置最適合絕大部分的錶款。

機械錶保養維修要訣:在哪買送回哪裡


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Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065/1A


若錶款出現需要送回店家的問題,應先生建議,在哪買就送回哪裡,如果真發現不太對勁,也可直接送回代理商,請代理商鑑定、處理,至於喜歡在海外購買的消費者,就必須慎重考慮找尋有信譽的店家進行問題錶款的處理,過去就曾發生過內部零件不是原裝的狀況,這是一般非鐘錶專業的消費者所能辨識,為免爭議還是以原先購買的店家與代理商為主要諮詢對象。
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Re: 年後注意:免花大錢的手錶定期保養守則 (分數: 1)
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