mico 寫到: |
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台積電會減少代工嗎
那有人生意不做 |
這個比喻有點奇怪...好像不一樣! 不過我希望公司沒有這一天...
![哈 哈 哈](modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif)
![哈 哈 哈](modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_lol.gif)
看到的趨勢是 Panerai/IWC的確都有轉自家芯的趨勢...相信供給量是會逐年漸少的沒錯!
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Vipbig
終極會員 ![]() ![]() |
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mico
終極會員 ![]() ![]() |
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leejc
分區版面管理員 ![]() ![]() |
最近在讀到Watch Navi上關於Pierre DeRoche CEO對於ETA每年減少15%供應非SWATCH Group機蕊的影響的訪談,於是又引起小弟興趣,基本他是認為Sellita目前是取代ETA而獨佔市場供應,Sellita和ETA的關係可見這篇
http://www.christopherward.co.uk/blog/the-eta-v-sellita-story/ Pierre DeRoche CEO Pierre Dubois是Dubois Depraz的Gerald Dubois的老二,Pierre DeRoche獨立至今10週年,Dubois Depraz是背後機蕊的設計和製造,Pierre DeRoche的理念是製做複雜但又不過於複雜且價位不致於太高的腕錶,這跟ETA的關係在哪呢?緣由就是Dubois Depraz是一家設計製造以ETA為基礎機蕊,搭配自家模組產出不同功能機蕊的製錶廠,這比100%自製機蕊成本低得多,Dubois Depraz提供各大廠中級計時錶的機蕊部分是這種組合,這些大廠包括百年靈、萬寶龍、亞米茄(Speedmaster Automatic)、名士、尚维沙等品牌 http://www.tokeizanmai.com/chronomove3.html http://gorgeousgeorgesblog.blogspot.sg/2009/05/2_23.html 因此ETA的減少供應對這個產業有不可忽視的影響 ![]() http://www.europastar.com/magazine/features/1004084276-110-years-of-dubois-depraz.html http://vimeo.com/43902074 _________________ ![]() ![]() leejc 在 星期日 2015-01-11 13:55 作了第 4 次修改 |
Aceman
白金會員 ![]() ![]() |
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leejc
分區版面管理員 ![]() ![]() |
這篇讚
![]() http://www.mattbaily.ca/en/blog/2012/01/30/watches-depth-movement-calibres/ "Dubois-Depraz is a name that is often referenced within the industry, being one of the top manufacturers of complication modules (a module is a kit that attaches to an existing movement to add additional functions). A family-run business since 1901, they are based in the Vallee de Joux and offer an independent alternative to Frederic Piguet calibres. They don’t produce complete movements, but do offer high-quality complications to companies that don’t have the resources to build their own designs from the ground up, or to companies that would prefer to use tested and reliable modules rather than attempting to build something from scratch. They supply some major brands that would otherwise claim to be vertically integrated manufactures – Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, for example. Dubois-Depraz makes a variety of modules but is best known for chronograph and calendar complications. Occasionally you will see their name referenced in a watch catalogue (Marvin and Tag Heuer disclose their use of DD modifications), in which case it means that they provided the module for that particular calibre. Just because a brand uses DD doesn’t make them any less of a manufacture – Dubois Depraz is one of the highest quality, most trusted producers of mechanisms in Switzerland, and there is no shame in having one of their modifications in your watch." "In some instances the calibre may be modified beyond recognition – such as with the aforementioned Dubois Depraz modules. Another good example would be the Panerai OPX series, which is based on the ETA/Unitas 6497 but modified with unique bridges, a swan neck regulator, and chronometer performance. The standard practice was for ETA to provide ebauches (unfinished movement kits) to outside brands for them to decorate, modify and assemble in-house." "Many balk at the current practice of movement sharing among brands. Certainly the Swatch Group took exception to their competitors relying on their production to compete with their own brands. While it is true that you will find the same movement in many different watches at many different price points, it should not diminish the quality of the product. ETA movements may be common, but they are popular for good reason – nothing is as economical, well built, reliable and easy to service. They are workhorse calibres that do their job without fuss. And they are the “tracteur” calibres of the industry – movements that lend themselves well to tuning to chronometer performance. ETA movements occupy a significant portion of COSC certification. And in the long term, any competent watchmaker can service an ETA movement, regardless of the brand of the watch. Parts and after-sales service are always readily available for ETA calibres." _________________ ![]() ![]() |
leejc
分區版面管理員 ![]() ![]() |
"Audemars Piguet & Girard-Perregaux are just some of Dubois-Depraz's ongoing clients"
![]() "Even many Richard Mille chronograph watches have a lot of Dubois-Depraz in them" ![]() "Some of Dubois-Depraz's largest clients are major brands in the Swatch and Richemont Group - as well as Rolex. Yes, even Rolex relies on Dubois-Depraz for at least a few important parts in some of their movements. Brands I know they work with include Breitling, Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Patek-Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and a lot others. For example the chronograph part of the movements in many Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores are produced here at Dubois-Depraz. It might be surprising, even thought-provoking to learn that proud and important brands such of these rely on external suppliers for parts and expertise. That is one way of looking at it, especially given how much brands like to talk themselves up in terms of their technical achievements. Another way of looking at it is to simply understand the nature of "Swiss Made." http://www.ablogtowatch.com/inside-dubois-depraz-empire-of-the-watch-movement-module/ _________________ ![]() ![]() |