IWC現有計時錶款，眾所皆知是改自ETA 7750。
許多反IWC的錶迷，說IWC直接用ETA 7750。
像我支持IWC的，就說IWC是拿ETA 7750 heavy modified。
當然，IWC有沒有重改ETA7750，看機芯圖，說故事即可一切明瞭。
但，我今天拿一篇1998年11月 一篇澳洲腕錶刊物寫過的一篇報導稱讚IWC如何將基礎ETA改成自己機芯.............
讓我們來檢驗過去8年來，IWC是否如雜誌所說。
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The following is a translation from the Uhrenjournal, 20 November 1998, an Austrian watch publication
Question:
How can a fine watch manufacturer such as IWC, state, that despite using an ETA-serial calibre, it renders a base ETA movement into a new, superior IWC movement? For example, what changes are made to an ETA-Valjoux 7750 calibre before it is built into an IWC chronograph?
Many watch manufacturers purchase their calibres from the serial base calibre manufacturer ETA. ETA offers a wide variety serving most needs. However, for many watch collectors seeking limited production calibres, this is just the reason to avoid buying a watch with an ETA movement. What if a renowned manufacturer such as IWC Schaffhausen would use the actually very good and tested ETA Valjoux 7750 for its chronographs, after undertaking numerous modifications? What speaks against the ETA movement? Actually, only the fact that it is widely used and therefore not very exclusive. In turn, what speaks for the ETA movement is that, due to the high production, it is a mature and technically impeccable movement. There are no "infant illnesses" and it is constantly developed further. Why therefore should IWC overlook the best serial chronograph-movement? Obviously, there are other alternatives, however, from an economic and technical standpoint, the decision for the Valjoux is guaranteed to be the right move.
Now, what does IWC do with this calibre, and why do they treat it as if it were their own movement? The explanation is pretty simple: IWC purchases the best serial engine and undertakes on that basis the best possible engine tuning. You could say that IWC does what AMG does with Mercedes engines, Alpina with BMW or Abt with VW or Audi engines. Serial engines are used, which in turn are tuned and optimized with the best experience available.
In the case of the Valjoux, the calibre is only bought in its components, never readily assembled. In addition, only the best possible version is purchased - the so-called Chronometer version. When the components arrive in Schaffhausen (IWC's factory location) there are first of all checked by eye, and then randomly checked in detail. Some components of the original ETA calibre are immediately eliminated and are never used by IWC. They are replaced by usually more expensive and better ones.
The entire escapement is a good example. It is ordered separately with different, more exact technical IWC specifications and is only fitted into the calibre at the end of the assembly. Some changes take place even earlier: For instance, all metal bearings of the Valjoux 7760 are replaced by jewel bearings - the Valjoux 7760 (same as the 7750 but in the handwound version) is the basis for the Portugieser Chronograph movements. There is an IWC expert whose job it is to extract by hand all metal bearings from the supplied calibre and replace them with the more expensive jeweled bearings. This is an effort, which will ultimately significantly increase the longevity of the movement.
This exercise is futile in the version 7750 as it only comes with jewels. Instead numerous cogwheels are replaced. For instance, one is part of the winding mechanism, which ETA supplies with three holes in order that it can be worked on by machines and be transported by robot arms. As the holes are drilled, there is some metal, which is pushed over the surface - causing friction with the above-located bridge. Now IWC found out that it is precisely the position of these holes, which will cause fine metallic debris over time to accumulate. In the short run, such metallic debris is not a problem, however over a longer period such debris will cause problems.
Many more examples could be listed at this point, reaching far beyond the space allocated for this article. Therefore, let's come back to the escapement of the movement. Before the escapement is fitted into the movement, a specially trained, female horological expert (so-called regleuse) checks each hairspring for unevenness. How does she do it? Quite simple, she holds the escapement with a special device and turns it. Then she makes sure with her magnifying glass than the escapement unfolds in concentric circles. If not, she manually bends the hairspring to perfection. Again, this in an effort of which the value is only apparent in the sum of all efforts and is ultimately reflected in the accuracy of the movement. The pinnacle of all these tuning efforts lies in completely replacing the barrel. There are some many changes and modifications to the calibre 7750 leading to far lower power requirements of the movement. As a result the original ETA barrel is now far too strong for the modified IWC movement. A "weaker" IWC barrel brings about significant advantages. All moving parts suffer far less wear and tear because there are exposed to far smaller forces - again, this significantly prolongs the average life of an IWC movement.
It is not exaggerated if IWC makes the statement that it treats the ETA movements as if it were an original IWC movement. The numerous modifications and the great care, completely transform the original, mass-produced movement by ETA into another movement. ETA is not necessarily ETA as it is often falsely stated .
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gs430
分區版面管理員   |
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kurt
終極會員  |
發表於: 星期二 2006-10-10 23:29
thanks for sharing!
聽說IWC明年會出自製的計時機心 看來自製機心會是未來的趨勢 尤其是像IWC這樣一家享有鐘錶界工程師美譽的錶廠 一定要做出自己的特色才行 IWC將ETA改的很好 但必須要證明自己的能力不光只是改裝而已 CAL.5000系列已經是一個開始 期待明年能有更多的驚喜! |
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gs430
分區版面管理員 |
發表於: 星期二 2006-10-10 23:39
IWC是一家很好的錶廠，從創立1868年來，從無任何經營權易手(PP都還曾經破產過咧)，是一家實力堅強的錶廠。
IWC計時款如果真的出了自家機芯，希望成交價不要破20萬(真怕他拿daytona價格比較，買一個要花30萬以上)，不然買起來就很吃力了。 |
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vickkuan
進階會員   |
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gs430
分區版面管理員 |
發表於: 星期三 2006-10-11 00:06
兩種外型截然不同。
關於技術層次kurt應該比較熟。我提供我個人主觀看法: 3712大葡萄牙雙追針，錶徑40.9mm, 已經停產。只有日本限定版的有透背，但我沒看過實錶。 3786今年剛發行的飛行系列陶瓷雙追針，錶徑44mm, 限量1000隻。目前國外一錶難求，已經超定價出售。 這兩隻錶，我個人判斷是收藏用，尤其後者是等升值的錶款。日常佩戴應不合適。 |
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iwc5000
資深會員   |
發表於: 星期三 2006-10-11 02:39
恐怕很難喔... 
君不見自製的小三針手上鏈入手價就將近二十五萬，那更為複雜的計時款怎麼可能低於此呢？ 小弟認為價格很重要沒錯，但真正的重點應該是表現是否優良及打磨是否優異。 如果新機芯能給人有驚艷的感覺，那相信應該還是會有大把的人願意捧上白花花的銀子將其納入收藏吧！ 
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iwc5000
資深會員 |
發表於: 星期三 2006-10-11 02:44
借用一下相對論的圖，他們家剛好有一隻... 
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roger7178
分區版面管理員  |
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vickkuan
進階會員 |
發表於: 星期三 2006-10-11 13:43
感覺沒什麼打磨, 與Lange or PP 計時機芯的美感有相當的差距....of course price is also a big difference.
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calatravayang
榮譽版面管理員  |
發表於: 星期三 2006-10-11 14:05
就我看過的幾支IWC而言，的確裝飾性的打磨並不特別出色，尤其某些特別高價的款式來說，其實我個人認為是還不到應有的水準 不過要拿來跟Lange或PP比較也太嚴苛了點 |
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